Pumpkin S'Mores Cookies

Why this recipe works

Pumpkin adds a lot of water to cookie dough, which usually makes cookies cakey. This recipe controls it in three ways. The pumpkin is blotted to remove excess moisture, only an egg yolk is used instead of a whole egg, and the dough is chilled so it firms up and spreads less. Browning the butter cooks off its water and adds a nutty, toasted flavor that pairs well with pumpkin spice and chocolate. The s'mores stack sits on a graham cracker base, so the cookie has a crisp bottom and the marshmallow does not leak onto the tray. Sealing the dough around the stack traps the marshmallow as it melts. Regular marshmallows are used because minis melt away inside the cookie.

Key ingredients

• Brown butter (1/2 cup butter, browned): Nutty, toasted flavor and less water in the dough.
• Blotted pumpkin puree (1/3 cup): Pumpkin flavor without making the cookies cakey.
• Egg yolk: Richness and chew without the extra water of an egg white.
• Pumpkin pie spice (1 tsp): The warm spice of the dough.
• Graham cracker halves: The base of the s'more and the cookie's crisp bottom.
• Regular-size marshmallows: The gooey center; minis would melt away.

Step-by-step tips

• Step 1: use a light-colored pan so you can see the butter change color.
• Step 3: pour it out promptly; brown butter burns quickly once off the heat in a hot pan.
• Step 5: blot the pumpkin by pressing it between paper towels.
• Step 10: chill for the longer time on a warm day.
• Step 14: pinch the seams firmly; any gap lets the marshmallow escape.
• Step 16: work quickly, while the edges are still soft.

Troubleshooting

• The marshmallow leaked out. The dough was not sealed all around. Wrap and pinch the edges closed.
• The cookies are cakey. The pumpkin was not blotted. Remove as much moisture as you can.
• The dough is too soft to wrap. Chill it longer, and keep it cold between batches.
• The butter burned. Lower the heat and stir constantly; take it off as soon as it is golden brown and smells nutty.

Variations

• Use milk chocolate squares for a classic s'mores taste.
• Skip the s'mores stack and bake the dough as plain pumpkin chocolate chip cookies.
• Leave off the teddy graham topping; the recipe marks it as optional.

How to serve

Serve them slightly warm, when the marshmallow center is still soft and stretchy.

Make ahead

Make and chill the dough ahead, then wrap and bake the cookies when you want them.

Storage and reheating

Keep them in an airtight container at room temperature. Warm one briefly to soften the center again.

Frequently asked questions

Why blot the pumpkin?

It removes excess water, so the cookies stay chewy instead of cakey.

Can I use mini marshmallows?

The recipe specifies regular-size marshmallows; minis melt away inside the cookie.

How do I know the butter is browned?

It foams, then turns golden brown, smells nutty and shows little brown bits at the bottom.

How much dough goes around each stack?

About 2 tablespoons, flattened slightly and sealed around the graham cracker, chocolate and marshmallow.

Why spin a cutter over the cookies?

It is an optional trick to round the edges into neat circles while they are still hot.